A day of ambling around Munich through Hofgarten, Englischer Garden (English Garden) and Karolinenplatz. This included Munich’s hotspot surfing location…yes, surfing in Munich! As much as I love historical sites, sometimes the body and mind need a rest. Parks and gardens are the perfect respite when doing a city visit, as is for people living or working in them
I can’t recall any major city I’ve been to that doesn’t have a major (easily accessible) park, except for Dubai and Johannesburg (the latter used to have one). Varying in size and style. Usually big to massive, planted to represent a natural setting or manicured like a show garden. For some of the most beautiful parks and gardens I’ve see take a look at Milan, Central Park, Tokyo, Kuala Lampoor, Madrid, Sintra, Saville – there are more but I’ve not posted them yet. This will be a short blog, more pictures than writing.
Wittelsbacher Brunnen / Spring
Named after the Wittelsbacher dynastic Bavarian family. It forms part of five celebratory fountains to commemorate with this one represents an allegory to the primary forces of water. Located on Lenbachplatz (used to be called Maximiliansplatz). Constructed between 1893 – 1895 to celebrate the completion of Munich’s wate supply system. Then, reconstructed in 1951 because it was badly damaged during WWII.
Hofgarten
I walked through Hofgarten many times. Not too big, around two football/soccer fields in size. Simplistic in style, laid out in a grid like format with eight flower lined paths all congregating at the centrepiece in the middle, a copper roofed pavilion dedicated to the roman god Diana. Along with the radiating paths are two rectangular paths: one as the circumference of the path, the other, halfway between the middle and the circumference.
History
Italian Renaissance in style, it was built between 1613-1617 but Maximilliam I (Elector of Bavaria). At the time of construction, even today, it lies in a prominent piece of real estate. To the North East, a memorial to commemorate the execution of peaceful protesters against Hitler. South East, is the Residenz. East of it is Bavarian Staatskanzlei (State Chancellery) which used to be the Army Museum. To the West is Hofgartentor (Court Garden Gate). As with many things in Munich, it was destroyed in WWII.
Englischer Garden
At over 3.7 square kilometres, it’s big. It reminded me a bit of Hyde Park. With meadow like undulating rolling hills, to seclude lake retreats shaded by draping willow trees. I couldn’t help but chuckle with the locals treating the lakes like a beach. I’ve mentioned many times before how much I like large city parks. Each with their own personality, serving the same purpose; a get away from the bricks an mortar of the city. Only a short trip from the city centre and you can mentally escape from the hamster wheel.
History
The reason for its existence is quite unique. The ruler at the time didn’t want to move to Munich because he didn’t like it, so he build the garden to make the city prettier. Since Maximilliam III Joseph (last ruler of the Wittlesbach dynasty) had no children, when he died the throne was passed to Charles Theodore (count and elector of the Palatinate) who lived in Mannheim; a residence on the Rhine. He even tried to swap his inheritance for the Austrian Netherlands, unsuccessfully. Needless to say this irritated the population of Bavaria. His solution, make the environment more pleasant for him to live there. It may have been for selfish reasons, even so the end results benefited the city. Englischer Garden was one of the improvements, which was open to the public in 1781 – the only public garden at the time.
Englischer Garden didn’t start out to replicate an English Garden, this came about purely by circumstances and those at the helm of the military. Sir Benjamin Thompson, though born in Massachusetts, was a Royalist. Following British defeat in the American was of independence he returned by England, then moved to mainland Europe, ending up as Charles Theodore’s chief of military (1784). It was peacetime in Bavaria and Sir Thompson proposed the majority of the soldiers should be given leave to participate in civil projects. Amongst these projects was to gain skills in farming and gardening. In 1789, Charles Theodore decreed that all garrisons should have a garden, to serve as recreational areas and to teach agricultural skills.
Starting as a military project, Englischer Garden became a public park. From rather small beginnings, many additions were added ending up with the size you see today (it was extended slightly in 1799 and 1800). Though throughout construction, and following, it still served to teach the military agricultural skills: cattle farming, sheep farming, veterinary school, agricultural school. In 1792 the park was officially opened. By 1823 the park had diverged from it’s original use and had become what we see today by Friedrich Ludwig Sckell. His Nephew Carl August Sckell added the hill and Monopteros.
Eisbach Canal
Munich, synonymous with beer and Nazis, not surfing. Eisbach Canal is a 2.1 kilometre canal running through Englischer Garden. It looks more like a natural stream than a canal, fed by the Isar River. As the water exits from under a pedestrian bridge they have created an artificial wave. I had read about people surfing here, thinking this would be on the random occasion. No, they queue up on either side. As one rider finishes or falls, another jumps in. I must have been there for 30 minutes, and they were surfing the whole time. It is so regular that people go there all the time to watch…as I did!
Karolinenplatz
Found by coincidence taking a wrong turn heading back to my hotel. The obelisk caught my eye. Named after Queen Caroline of Bavaria, the wife of Maximillian I Joseph. Its purpose is symbolises the relationship between Bavaria and France. The Obelisk commemorates the 30,000 Bavarian solidiers who died in Napolean’s Russian campaign in 1812. No, the obelisk is not from Egypt. These days the location doesn’t reflect it previous grand surroundings. Back then Karolinenplatz was mostly surrounded by Palais Asbeck and Toerring-Seefeld Palace (I think I got that right). Anyway, If I see an obelisk I’m always going to go check it out.
That’s it. Short and sweet blog post. I’ll add more pictures to my FB page. Next post will also be short, Munich Olympic village.
