Frauenkirche, Odeonplatz, Feldherrhalle and more form part of Day 1 part two in Munich/ München. Much like Munich Day 1 Part 1, it’s a bit of a jumble. With most sites in the city only a short walk from each other, many places were passed multiple times each day. Meaning some pictures taken on day three for part of day 1 etc. Both part 1 & part 2 can easily be done in one day (and more). Splitting it into two parts was easier, otherwise Day 1 would have been an anthology.
Frauenkirche
About 1.5km walk from my accommodation is one of the most prominent buildings in the town centre, Frauenkirche. Its two copper tipped towers stand proud above the surrounding buildings. Frauenkirche is an odd’ish looking church. At first, I couldn’t put my finger on it until viewed from the Altes Rathaus or St. Peter’s Church tower. Then I realised, it looks like an upside-down boat. With the two towers stuck on at the end, like rudders. Long elegant vertical windows nearly from the ground stretching high up cusping the tip of the rooftop. These evenly spaces windows wrap around the church creating the elusion of the brickwork resembling frames of a boat hull. A terracotta roof tops the structure; an exaggerated pitched roof for its hull.
History
In Bavarian, Dom zu Unsra Liabm Frau, in English, Cathedral of Our Dear Lady is the official name but more commonly referred to as Frauenkirche Munchen/Munich. Which serves as the cathedral of the Archdiocese of Munich and Freising and the seat of the Archbishop. It is the biggest hall church in the world (upside-down boat 😊). A church has been here since the 12th century, late Romanesque period. Frauenkirche is late Gothic, built in the 15th century. Compared to other churches of this time, built of large stone, Frauenkirche is built of brick. Simply because the closest quarry was too far away, and brick was cheaper. The brick gives it a urban feel, almost like a welcoming home.
The two towers, a double beacon throughout Munich stand at 98m. They took the longest to complete too (tight purse-strings), in 1525. Built to hold 20,000 standing congregants, pews were added later, reducing capacity to 13,000…that’s still loads! Consider St. Peter’s Church is only 100 or 200 meters away, it’s odd that another large church was built so close by, making Frauenkirche a second parish less than a stone’s throw away.
Throughout WWII Munich was heavily bombarded by the Allied Forces. Frauenkirche was not left unscathed, suffering heavy damage including a collapsed roof. Not only structural damage, almost all the church’s historical artifacts were lost too. Restoration began shortly after the war, completed in 1994!
Interior
From the red face brick exterior, you could be mistaken for walking into a Scandinavian haven. White towering hexagonal columns lead your eyes up to the vaulted ceiling. Normally in cathedrals with so many columns can create an overpowering feeling, almost claustrophobic. Frauenkirche, with its huge white columns, creates a feeling of openness reflecting the light in what would have been a caverne of grey and brown. The columns continually draw your eyes up, forcing you to take in all that lies before you.
Odeonplatz
From Frauenkirche walking through Marienplatz to Odeonplatz is around 750m walk. You could be forgiven for thinking Munich/Munchen used to be occupied by the Romans. Odeonplatz is as it names says, a town square. Odeon, deriving from the Greek meaning for a place for musical activities. A perfect example would be the one I saw in Amman, Jordan or Petra. Odeonplatz, named after the former Odeon which used to be there, a concert hall. These days more known for its use in WWII by the Nazi’s, and the infamous 1923 Beer Hall Putsch.
History
Starting off as a bit of a pompous project in 1790; making the route from Nympheburg Palace (which a visited a few days later) into the city more impressive. Then, King Ludwig I of Bavaria made additional changes resulting in what can be seen today – more or less. Used on special occasions for parades like the funeral of Franz Josef Strauss, or victory parade for troops who fought in the Franco-Prussian war. It is still used every year for the parade to the Oktoberfest… a different kind of special occasion 😊. Odeonplatz was used from the inception of the Nazi party starting with the Beer Hall Putsch. They held a memorial every year in Odeonplatz to commemorate 16 Nazi’s who were killed that evening.
Feldherrnhalle
Commissioned by King Ludwig 1 of Bavaria in 1841. This is the same location that ended a brief battle ending Hitler’s Beer Hall Putsch (coup d’etat). Feldherrnhalle stands like a grand picture frame monument. More fitting for the Forum in Rome than in Germany and quite out or sync with the rest of the surrounding architecture. Like some grandiose stage cut into three by arches and pillars, you would expect it to host theatrical shows. In part it is a theatrical show, except the show is more one of architectural propaganda.
Built in the style of Loggia dei Lanzi in Florence (I was heading to Florence whilst in Italy following my time in Munich). It honours the Bavarian army – two military leaders Johann Tilly and Karl Philipp von Wrede. Johann lead Bavaria in the Thirty Years War, Karl lead the fight against Napoleon – statues were created by Ludwig Schwanthaler, the Lions by Wilhelm von Rumann.
During Nazi rule the Feldherrnhalle was turned into a memorial for the 15 Nazis and one bystander killed in the Beer Hall Putsch on Friday, 9th November 1923 (5 policemen were also killed). The Nazis called the momument Mahnmal der Bewegung (Memorial of the Movement). Additions were added to the monument under the design of Paul Ludwig Troost. Mahnmal der Bewegung was guarded 7/24/365 by the SS. The square in front of the Feldherrnhalle was regularly used for SS parades and Nazi rallies. New SS recruits took their oath to Hitler in front of the memorial too. At the end of WWII the Feldherrnhalle was restored to its pre-Nazi appearance.
Theatine Church
Theatine Church of St. Cajetan and Adelaide is the full name. I didn’t go inside. I couldn’t simply include a picture of it without saying anything. A canary yellow church that sticks out like a sore thumb in Munich. It would fit perfectly if this were Spain, or Lima, Peru, but here in Munich it may as well have neon lights! Built in the late 1600s by Elector Ferdinand Maira and his wife, Henriette Adelaid of Savoy; to say thank you for the birth of his heir to the Bavarian crown – Prince Max Emanual.
Beer Halls and Gardens
October Fest needs no introduction. Probably what most people associate Munich with these days. No, I was not in Munich for the festival, nor have I been, which is a pity. Beer halls are dotted throughout the city especially in the historical centre. Beautiful period built buildings with pretty interiors to match. Unlike traditional English pubs which tend to have low ceilings and dark wood furnishings. Beer Halls here a.k.a pubs, feel more spacious and open, like a shrunken church. Vaulted pained ceilings, held up by stout columns. Even with the dark wood furnishings they still feel spacious. They have an air of “gathering places”, with long benches forcing people to sit amongst each other. Whereas old English pubs seem to create areas of privacy.
