Propylaea, Konigsplatz, Glyptohek, Munich Residenz, Siegestor were to be the order of the day; walking distance sites from Munich/München historical centre. Konigsplatz was an area I had walked past a few times before fully exploring. Large grey stout buildings purposefully and sparsely dotted around manicured gardens dissected by wide, yet quiet, roads. Without stretching the imagination, this place is perfect for large gathering like parades. It has a stately and militaristic feel. New made to look old by lending architectural style from the Roman and Greek era.
Propylaea
Built as a memorial to the accession of the throne of Otto of Greece, who was the son of King Ludwig I of Bavaria. It is no wonder that it is named and styled after the Propylaea of the Athenian Acropolis Greece. The Propylaea was going to form part of Munich defence walls, and be one of its main gates, like the Karlstor. By the time building was to start (30 year in the planning), it was halted by King Ludwig’s abdication in 1848.
I’m sure as a means to safe face not only with his son but to foster better relations with Greece, King Ludwig funder the Propylaea out of his own pocket. To ad insult into injury, the Propylaea had only just opened before King Otto stepped down. Actually, he was forced to do so because of a coup in Greece whilst he was visiting a Greek island.
Konigsplatz
Build by King Ludwig I, as a montage to Ancient Greece to create a German Athens. Consisting of the Propylaea, Glyptothek (archaeological museum), Staatliche Antikensammlungen (art museum….for some reason I don’t have a picture!) along with a huge area of manicured grass areas. As I alluded to earlier, during WWII the Nazi’s used this space for mass rallies. They must have been big to fill this area. Considering the Nazi’s national headquarters was around the corner, Odeonplatz a stone’s throw away, Konigsplatz would have been the epicentre of Nazi activity. Nazis burnt books at Konigsplatz. It was also featured in propaganda films.
With a history of a father’s gift to his son, warped into a racist ideological centre, now a place of history and art. Konigsplatz’s now tranquillity masks an interesting history. Contrary to its greco/roman façade only dates back to the 19th century.
Glyptothek
Along with every ancient looking building in Konigsplatz, Glyptothek was built in the early 1800’s. Its purpose remains today as it was envisaged, to house Greek and Roman Antiquities. Glyptothek is the oldest public museum. Contrary to my usual ways, I didn’t go inside. I walked past it so many times thinking, I’ll go inside next time! Such a pity. 2 months late (October 2018) it closed for refurbishment till January ’21. You would have thought I would have learnt my lesson by now…if it looks interesting nothing is lost by at least pocking your head through the door!
Munich Residenz / Residence
From the outside it’s not much to look at, except for its colossal size. However, the interior is spectacular. Formally the royal palace of the Wittelsbach monarchs of Bavaria, it is the largest city palace in Germany. With 130 room and 10 courtyards, split into three areas: Konigsbau, Alte Residenz, and the Festsaalbau.
History
The first building was erected in 1385. There had been a rebellion against the rulers of the time, Stephen II (1375-1413) and his brother. They made the residence of Munich pay for it as punishment. Having learnt his lesson, Stephen II built something that could be defended, kept the peasants at a good distance away and made it easy should he need to escape. Fortified by the dual city walls and surrounded by a moat it was more a caslte/fortress than palace. Additions were made by Albert IV (1465-1508).
More was added over 4 centuries leaving little to no trace of the original fortress/castle. It had grown to such an extent that it covered nearly a quarter of the city. Munich Residenz was more than a palace; it was almost a self-contained town within a city. From a church, monastery, army barracks, houses, gardens, courtyards, royal quarters, banqueting halls, theatre and so on and so on.
Interior
Munich Residence follows the same recipe as many palaces throughout the world; it’s full of beautiful, exquisite objects. “Collect” over decades, even centuries, the best of the best of their respective time. Wonderous objects obtained when cost was irrelevant. Many items made of rare materials even during their manufacture, crafted by the most adept hands of their time. Craftmanship of which in many instances is now a long-lost secret.
From crystal to ivory, precious stones to metals….mostly gold, paintings to carpentry are all on display in their volumes. These are a snapshot of history at its highest opulence. Not to be outdone by the objects it protects, Munich Residenz’s interior is second to none. Reminiscent of Louis XIV and the Palace of Versailles, details adorn every millimetre. Renaissance, Baroque, Neoclassical design are all covered under one roof.
Renaissance Antiquarium
Standing head and shoulders above all the rooms in Munich Residence is the Renaissance Antiquarium, that’s no small feat. A captivating hall, that sucks your gaze through the angled rays of light from the high perched lunettes. These lunettes light the room from bright to cool giving the room a calming serene mood. Here you could meditate on time and life. Staring from one end to the other is quite hypnotic. I stood on one end for ages just glaring out taking in as much as my senses could allow.
History
Built for its name’s sake, an antiquarium; to display the antique collection of the Duke Albert IV (1590-1579), taking four years to build (1568 – 1571). This is the largest renaissance hall North of the Alps, converted to a banqueting hall in 1586 – 1600. After 1581 the vaulted ceiling was added along with the lunettes. I would have like to have seen the room before the lunettes, because they create such a beautiful mood to the room. Light comes into the hall in beams gentled showcase off the painted vaulted ceiling. Marbled floor glistens the speckled light. Munich Residenz is worth the visit if only to see the Renaissance Antiquarium Hall.
Siegestor
Like the Arc de Triomphe in Paris or Arc de Triomf in Barcelona, Siegestor the Munich’s version. Dedicated to the Bavarian Army. Since WWII it has been rebranded as a reminder of peace. 21 metres high, 24m wide and 12m wide it was built by King Ludwig I and completed in 1852. Taking heavy damage during WWII it was demolished in 1945 and only partially reconstructed to what it is today. The inscription at the back was changed to “Dem Sieg geweiht, vom Kreig zerstört, zum Freiden mahnend”; meaning “Dedicated to victory, destroyed by war, urging peace”.
